Trip Info
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Hotels in Islamabad & Hunza + Full-service base camp & high camps
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Islamabad
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Islamabad
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June – September
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Pakistani high-altitude guides
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English (others on request)
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Full board throughout expedition
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Highly limited (elite teams only)
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Domestic flights, jeeps, porters
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6–10 hrs/day (summit days longer)
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Advanced 7000m Expedition
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4 – 8 climbers
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Hunza Valley, Karakoram Highway, Ultar Glacier, Ultar Base Camp
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Mountaineering, High-Altitude Climbing, Glacier Travel
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18
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65
Overview
Ultar Peak (also known as Ultar Sar or Bojohagur Duanasir II) towers dramatically above the Hunza Valley, rising over 5,300 meters almost directly from the valley floor — one of the greatest vertical reliefs on Earth. Though classified as a 7,000-meter peak, Ultar’s steep faces, unstable ice, and technical ridges make it one of the most challenging mountains of its height anywhere in the world.
Once considered the world’s highest unclimbed independent peak, Ultar gained legendary status during the 1980s and 1990s after numerous failed and tragic attempts. The first successful ascents were finally achieved in 1996 by two Japanese teams, cementing Ultar’s reputation as an elite objective for highly experienced alpinists.
The Johnson Expedition Ultar Peak program is designed for climbers with strong 6,000m+ experience who are ready for a serious technical and psychological challenge. We provide complete logistics, permits, base camp infrastructure, experienced staff, and a safety-focused operational approach, allowing you to concentrate solely on the climb.
Trip Highlights
- One of the most dramatic vertical ascents in the Karakoram
- Located directly above Karimabad in Hunza Valley
- Remote and rarely climbed elite 7,000m peak
- Spectacular views of Rakaposhi, Diran, and Batura Muztagh
- Fully supported base camp with experienced staff
- Technical alpine climbing with minimal crowd pressure
- Rich Hunza culture before and after the climb
- Approx. 40 days of pure mountaineering adventure